Eggnog. Not the most attractive name. Some people love it, and it is an integral part of their Christmas tradition. But some people hate it. The thought of drinking a thick mixture containing raw eggs disgusts them. Perhaps we should tell them that eggnog is basically melted ice cream (raw eggs, milk, and sugar) with alcohol included.
The origins of eggnog are obviously unknown, but it is generally accepted that the drink is an offshoot of a medieval British drink consumed by monks called ‘posset’ – a hot milky, ale drink. By the 13th century, eggs and figs began to be added, but due to the extravagant materials (milk, eggs and sherry were expensive, and consumed regularly only by the wealthy), it became a drink served only on special occasions, often to toast prosperity and good health. It is likely that the average British subject at the time may have gone their whole life without ever seeing a glass of milk.
But it only began to be associated with Christmas in the Colonies. The primary occupation of a colonist was farmer, so eggs and milk were easy to come by. And the cheap and local rum produced by the West Indies islands – or many of the new rum distilleries along the Atlantic coast – made the spirit far more affordable than sherry shipped across the ocean. During the Revolutionary War rum from the remaining British Colonies became difficult to obtain, so the resourceful upstarts turned to whiskey, and specifically bourbon from corn, (or homemade moonshine) as a substitute.
The name eggnog is thought to be a mashup of ‘noggin,’ a Middle English term for a wooden cup used for serving alcohol, and ‘grog,’ a strong beer. By the 18th century the term eggnog was widely used for the drink, but not the only one. O.H. Byron’s ‘The Modern Bartender’s Guide’ from 1879 lists several terms for the drink: eggnog, egg milk punch, and milk punch.
The drink is also at the centerpiece of a military riot. The Eggnog Riot, also known as the Grog Mutiny, took place at the United States Military Academy at West Point from December 24th through the 25th in 1826. Earlier in the year, Colonel Sylvanus Thayer, the Academy’s strict superintendent, forbade the purchase, storage, or consumption of alcohol. Some of the cadets, unhappy with the decision, smuggled in whiskey to be used for the traditional Christmas eggnog celebration. One of those cadets was Jefferson Davis – future president of the Confederacy. Around 4:00am two officers were awoken by a party upstairs in the dormitory. The drunken cadets threatened the officers, and the outrage grew until windows were broken, crockery was smashed, and furniture was destroyed. In the end, 19 cadets were dismissed, but somehow Davis avoided any trouble, as did his fellow cadet, Robert E. Lee.
Make no mistake, the eggnog of the founders was not the same liquid you buy in the grocery store in cartons. It was a boozy concoction containing several types of liquor. George Washington’s personal recipe contained 1 pint of brandy, 1/2 pint of rye, 1/2 pint of Jamaican rum, and 1/4 pint of sherry to only a pint of milk, a pint of cream, and a dozen eggs. This was due in part to make a drink worthy of celebrating with, and partly to make it shelf stable. I made a colonial eggnog last year (which was boozy, but delicious) and ended up dumping the remainder of the gallon in November (11 months later) because I needed room in the refrigerator – not because it had gone bad.
VARIATIONS
Localized forms of the drink sprang up throughout the Caribbean, Central, and South America, due to the colonial powers bringing forms of it from Europe and adapting it with local spirits and spices.
Throughout Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, and Belize they drink Rompope, a Mexican eggnog that uses rum, vanilla, and only the yoke of the egg – giving it a deeper yellow hue. The name is a version of the Spanish ‘rompon’, a rum-based eggnog version that came from Spain. It was created at the convent of Santa Clara in the State of Puebla, Mexico.
Peru has Biblia con Pisco which contains – of course – pisco. Pisco is a pomace brandy, made from the leftover grapes after they have been pressed during winemaking. It is combined with port, evaporated milk, cocoa cream, sugar and egg yolks.
Venezuela was late to the game with their Ponche Crema, a cream-based liqueur made from milk, eggs, sugar, rum, and a collection of spices including cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, and lemon rind. The commercially produced version dates to 1900.
But if the egg issue still bothers you, I would recommend Puerto Rico’s Coquito, a coconut, spice, and rum drink with no eggs at all. The drink still includes evaporated as well as sweetened condensed milk but relies on the coconut milk fat to recreate that thick creamy mouth feel you get from the eggs. It dates to the country’s Spanish colonial period, and it is utterly delicious, and not overly coconutty.
Whatever your traditions, Merry Christmas to all – and Cheers to you and your families!
- Bill Stott
AotCB-021
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